Places
My love affair with bridges comes with my background as a structural engineer. I just can't resist a beautiful bridge. Heading north US1 on the way to Bucksport ME, this bridge suddenly appeared. There was no question about getting off the road. I got off at the observation point, then crossed the bridge to the north bank, and went down the service road to the base. After about an hour it was time to go, but next time the plan is to arrive near sunset to capture some night shots.
How would you define personal transformation? Fundamental change? Enlightenment? Increased understanding of self? A new direction? All of the above? Last week I attended a workshop at John Paul Caponigro's studio in Cushing ME. It was a gathering of JP's alumni group called Next Step. As the newest member in attendance I really didn't know what to expect. I had meet many of the members online through Facebook and our Yahoo Group. It's amazing how well we can get to know someone through an online experience. The group was also there to attend an opening for their work at the Maine Media Workshops. This was a project all had been working on for almost 2 years, and included generation of a body of work, an artist statement, a book, a website, and 2 framed pieces sent to the show.
Through 5 days of discussion, review of work, creative exercises, and plenty of Q&A with JP, I learned a lot about my work, where I was with respect to my growth as an artist, the areas I need to work in, and the questions I need to constantly ask myself so that I can be effective in attaining my goals. My BIG suggestion to all of you who are reaching out to grow and progress in any endeavor - find a group, find a mentor, find resources, find support. There is power in the collective thoughts of like minded people. Ideas, encouragement, constructive criticism, advice, etc., etc. The most profound aspect is the power of your own contributions to your group, by contributing you get more. It's the universal law of giving and receiving, the more you give, the more you receive.
One of the highlights of the week was a visit to the home and studio of Paul Caponigro (JPs dad). Paul lives deep in the woods in an ideal creative environment. Paul presented to us several of his original prints included in his Megaliths monograph. It was an amazing experience. We watched in anticipation as each print was pulled from boxes of archived prints. And then we received the full explanation of when, where, and why each image was taken. Paul is deeply connected spiritually to his work. I gained a new appreciation and insight to this dimension of art...the relation of the work to the artist. Typically this is the part that I begin to glaze over. For the first time I began to see how fundamental and important this connection is.
We just finished a 7 day cruise with the family aboard the Princess Sapphire. This was my first "big ship" excursion. The thought of taking a jacket, tie, and dress shoes was disheartening. These items would take up valuable space that could be used by "essential" photo equipment. Hauling around 50 lbs of gear, a tripod, and laptop really doesn't leave a lot of room for extra clothing, much less more shoes. I guess I'll never travel like a normal person. I can't imagine having TWO pieces of luggage just to carry clothes and stuff.
We left Jacksonville on one of my favorite 6 AM flights. Boy how I hate getting up at 3:30 in the morning...maybe if I went to bed before 1 AM I wouldn't be so grumpy. We picked up my mom and had an uneventful flight to Memphis, then Seattle, and on to Vancouver where we met the kids who few in from New York and Boston. Vancouver is one of my favorite cities. It was great being back in Canada. People are friendly and seem to be happy with life, unlike walking around Boston or New York where people always seem to be yelling at each other.
Our hotel was the Blue Horizon on Robson St. Very nice accommodations. We had a corner room on the 23rd floor with a great view.
The next day we headed over to The Hudson Bay Company to pick up some souvenirs for the Winter Olympics. It will be crazy in Vancouver next year. Then on to Canada Place to catch our ship. The whole embarkation process was impressive. A long line but very orderly and things kept moving. Reminded me of queuing up for Space Mountain at Disney. Checking in 3000 people is not an easy task but these guys have it figured out. Our "state room" was very nice, the ship being less than 5 years old. We had upgraded to a room with a balcony which I highly recommend.
So what are the expectations of a photographer going on a family cruise ship? To be honest, they were low. I mean really, you are out in the ocean in a huge boat moving at 20 knots, going shopping, and eating 24 hours a day. I came for the ride, to relax, eat, and enjoy some family time. I had no real strategy for shooting or adding to my body of work. I was in for a surprise.
The weather in Vancouver was perfect, sunny and 70 degrees. As we headed north the clouds started to roll in. The weather report called for intermittent showers. Most of Southeast Alaska is within the boundaries of the Tongass National Forest, which is considered a rain forest, so what do you expect, Florida sunshine? Yes it did rain, mostly drizzle, with nice clouds and fog, and all those extra weather features that photographers love. We cruised all day as we made our way up the coast. From the balcony it was like watching the Discovery Channel live. There was a calm and peace to the passing water and coastline. Small inlets, groups of trees, rocks, and the absence of any evidence of man.
Population 8000, Alaska's 5th largest city. Makes you realize how desolate this part of the country is. Without the cruise ships (I counted 4 big ships anchored) there would be almost nothing here. We had no planned excursions, so we just did a walkaround the city. I also for the first time felt the presence of the size of the ship. It is an enormous vessel, dwarfing everything around it. All of the docks and facilities are fairly new and built by the cruise lines. All of the big stores in the ports are owned by the cruise lines. Hmmm, makes you wonder about this. One thing is for sure, this is a BIG business and someone is making lots of money.
The incredible scenery continued to unfold as we cruised to Juneau.
Alaska's capital. Population 31,000 (half of a football stadium). One Wal-mart, one McDonalds. Also home of the Mendenhall glacier, which we took an excursion to see. My very first glacier! Amazing. A living, breathing, river of ice. The viewing areas were a good half mile from the glacier. We had only 1 hour to view. The helicopter tour was $400, so the bus tour will do for now.
Skagway was the point of departure for those heading north to the Yukon Territory during the gold rush. A narrow gauge railway was built to haul people and supplies inland. We took a ride on the train, 20 miles uphill to the White Pass summit. The construction of the railway was an amazing feat of engineering through some amazing scenery. I hung out on the platform between cars, freezing, and loving every minute. I've never shot from a train before. Judging from the number of images I had to toss, it was clear that the speed, the bumps, and the lack of a tripod (r u kidding?) would offer some challenging shooting conditions.
What's nice about this cruise itinerary is that you are gradually exposed to more amazing views. The scenery was really getting interesting, and the entry in Glacier Bay was nothing short of amazing. There is something special about seeing and experiencing things for the first time. The shipboard viewing was ideal. Maybe a smaller vessel would be better but I was doing just fine on my balcony, watching the views unfold. The ship was perfectly silent as it slipped through the water, delivering new visuals every minute. I brought 2 bodies, and it was convenient to just switch to wide angle and then telephoto. At one point I switched out my 24-70 for my 300. There was almost too much to digest.
Back in the day glaciers were named after colleges. So there are the Yale and Harvard glaciers, Barnard and Smith, etc. I'm sure the Native Americans had names for all of these things. Why do we insist on re-labeling everything once we have "discovered" them? It's arrogant and disrespectful. Western civilization has its way of putting its mark on things. As we cruised into the fjord there were at least 5 glaciers in view. The ship parks itself in the middle of all this and slowly rotates, offering everyone adequate time to view the sight. After 3 rotations we made our way out towards Anchorage.
It's always sad to be packing your bag to head back to civilization. We disembarked at Whittier, and took a 6:30 AM bus ride to Anchorage where we toured around until our flights at 4:40 PM. Flew to Seattle, then the red-eye to Atlanta, then on to Jacksonville. It was a long day(s). Good to be home to 95 degree heat and 90% humidity!
Overall the cruise was wonderful. A great time with the family, ate way too much great food, and the service was excellent. My first exposure to the beauty of Alaska was perfect. We covered a lot of ground at a reasonable expense. Would I do another big cruise to Alaska...possibly if the family factor was involved. Cruises are nice because it brings everyone together, but allows each person to do their own thing. A great vacation model. If you want a Disney-esque Alaskan experience take a cruise, otherwise train for the Iditarod.
On the FAU campus in Boca Raton, FL is a hidden secret among book artists - the Jaffe Center for Book Arts. It houses a collection of over 6,000 artists' books, selected for their artistic expression, aesthetics, and unique book structures. Truly a one-of-a-kind collection. It occurred to me that as I attempt to assemble folios of my own prints, that the container should reflect the spirit and craftsmanship of the images, as opposed to some manufactured stamped out folder from Office Depot. In fact, a collection of prints bound or loose, is in every sense an "artist book". Just as a mat and frame enhance a larger print for display, a folio should serve a similar purpose when carrying a group of prints. My next project is to design and create a folio product with the artist book in mind. It's amazing how creative and beautiful some of these handmade books are. Many are produced as limited editions, and sought after by collectors and museums. Combining the medium of artist book and photographic folio does not seem to be a common practice. Perhaps one does not want to be distracted by the other. Are you a photograph or are you a book? I saw a few very beautiful photographic books in the Jaffe collection, some with minimal text, others with loose prints and pages. Anything is possible.
We were very honored to have time with both Arthur Jaffe, original donor of the collection, and John Cutrone, Program Director. Their love of books is evident. Thank you gentlemen for sharing your passion with us.
Dorian and I flew to New York to meet with my old boss from 20-20 and his wife to be tourists. A good time to re-visit some of my favorite sites: Statue of Liberty, Wall Street, Ground Zero, Times Square, and the Brooklyn Bridge. New York is a wonderful place for walk-around street photography. There is always something interesting to see. It's interesting to return several times to a place to see what new images can be captured. The differences in season, time of day, our own disposition, and random occurrences all help to create variety and serendipity. As we build our bodies of work around certain subjects, it's always good to have different perspectives...it gives some depth to your collection.
We also managed to spend an afternoon at the NY Photo Festival in Brooklyn. I enjoyed touring some of the galleries but my boss was not into some of the "fine art" photography on display. To be honest, I really don't understand some of the photography that is shown these days. I can really appreciate a landscape or photo journalism project, but the images of a dumpster in an empty parking lot and the x-rays of a toy (a whole wall full of them) just doesn't resonate with me. Well, I'm not about to get into a rant about the state of contemporary photographic art...maybe I'm just not there yet on the cerebral level. I look for images I can relate to and be inspired by. I don't have to like it, but if it communicates a message or emotion, then I enjoy the viewing experience.
Some goodies from Times Square, this place was really hopping on a Friday night:
Today Dorian and I drove to Gainesville to see an exhibit at the Florida Museum of Natural History titled: For Everglades - photos by Clyde Butcher and Jeff Ripple. Extraordinary. I've been to Butcher's Big Cypress gallery and have to say that viewing the large prints in the museum/gallery setting enhanced the viewing experience by providing the space required to view prints of this size. These images are simply unbelievable. Adjacent to this museum is the Harn Museum of Art, where we viewed the exhibition: Landscape Perspectives: Highlights from the Photography Collection. These museums are associated with the University of Florida and offer a superb resource to anyone who can get there. Admission is free. Whenever you can, check out local museums and galleries to seek out inspiration and view works of exceptional quality. It's all there, you just have to find it.
"I don't know exactly where ideas come from...it's just a matter of us figuring out how to receive the ideas waiting to be heard." - Jim Henson
Today we drove to Orlando to view the Jim Henson Smithsonian exhibition at the Orlando History Center. I'm a great fan of the Muppets and it was very enlightening to see how Henson's career developed and how prolific he was as creative genius. From early starts in TV commercials, to Sesame Street, to the Muppets, to movies like the Dark Crystal...the list goes on. I also realized that as a businessman, Henson was very aware of not only what the market needed, but how to build an organization that enabled him to enlist the talents of others and to leave a legacy of accomplishment. They don't make them like Jim Henson very often. Try to catch this exhibit if it comes close to you.
"I've always been in awe of the incredible beauty of every last bit of design in nature." - Jim Henson
After the museum closed we walked to the Church Street Marketplace and to my surprise it was largely abandoned. This used to be a happening place. Very sad. A huge condo was in the main square and the security guard said it was in foreclosure. Rough times everywhere.
Jacksonville has a new venue for artists, The Riverside Arts Market. It's been in the making for years, and surprisingly came to fruition a few weeks ago. This is a weekly, Saturday only market complete with food vendors, bands, and other fun activities. Attendence has exceeded all expectations. It's nice to see the arts being supported in Jacksonville. I met several photographers, the most noteable was a guy named Bill Yates of Cypix. Bill is a Jacksonville native and specializes in aerial photography. His abstracts from the air really caught my eye.
I settled down for a pulled pork BBQ sandwich and fries...just what the body needed! Couldn't resist some bridge abstracts either.
There comes a time when a photographer needs to be in the family snapshot mode. Family and friends depend on you to be the documentor of events, vacations, and other good times, so the shooting never ends. Not that we would want it to, but it would be nice to just enjoy a family outing without camera equipment, right? I've begun a habit of using my Canon G7 more on these occasions simply for the reason that I love to take family snaps and really hate lugging all my camera gear around Disney World. I've done that too many times. Besides it's a different skillset and mentality when you are using a point-and-shoot, in fact I enjoy the change. But you have to get over the fact that you won't be making any 20x30 enlargements of those snaps. The kids came home for spring break/vacation and brought friends so we headed south to Disney for a few days with my mom. Disney is a great place for the ultimate in artificial reality. It's the antithesis of a national park. Theme park/National park. Expensive/cheap. Crowded/secluded. Man-made/all natural. Wait in line/no line. 3 minute thrill/all day meditation. Fast food/bring your own. I enjoy the experience of both. Disney does an excellent job and the entertainment and accommodations are first class. I'll give them credit for that. We also visited the Kennedy Space Center. This is always an amazing place nestled in the Merritt Island Wildlife Refuge. Again, an example of opposites, co-existing and in harmony.
Which goes to show that you can find images virtually anywhere.
Staying in Manhattan is always a challenge due to the high cost of a decent hotel. Our favorite is the Best Western Hanbee located on Grand and Bowery. It is only 2 short blocks from Diana's apartment and is brand new. But based on the particular dates, even these rooms can get expensive (normally you can snag one for 120-140/night). We moved to the Best Western Seaport Inn for 116/night...a bargain. Excellent accommodations, fridge/microwave, breakfast, and a great locations near the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge and right near the Financial District. I had one morning to get some shots, and I opted for the bridges instead of heading towards the buildings. Late March in NY does not guarantee warm temperatures. It was 28 degrees with a stiff wind off the river when I headed out the door. I left my tripod at the NYC Resistor loft where I was shooting Diana's prep, and wish I had it this morning. Oh well, do the best you can. Saturday morning is a great time in this area, very few people and no traffic. 2 hours went by in no time. Did I get the shots I wanted? I know I could have benefited from a tripod, especially this kind of work. Next time we will hope for some good rates again.
Diana’s book, Fashion Geek, officially went on sale March 12. For the rollout Diana wanted to have a fashion show in NY. My daughter is one person who goes for it. On the evening of March 19 at 8 pm, the Pop Lounge on 48th Street was popping. The previous day we spent the day helping Di finish up some pieces for the show. We were bending leads on LEDs and prepping battery cases and taking some pictures at her hacker space, home of the NYC Resistor group in Brooklyn. On Thursday evening, we arrived early to help haul in the clothes and props. Diana was busy directing the hair and makep, while her friends were busy activating all the electronics on the outfits. The gathering lasted two hours, as the four models danced on their Fashion Geek platforms and people were able to see the designs. I think the crowd exceed 100 at the peak of the evening and everyone was having a good time. MTV was filming, and reporters from Popular Science and Fashion News Daily were present. We all had a great time, and we were proud parents. The show itself was sponsored by Fashion Indie and Craft Magazine. It is interesting to see how the industry works, and the amount af networking going on at these events. Yes, NY is where it happens and things were happening tonight.
Ok, I left Jacksonville yesterday at 76 degrees, sunshine, and now here is my view from the Hampton Inn in Thomaston ME. Could someone please tell these guys that winter is over? It's March already. I'm here all week for a B&W Mastery Workshop with John Paul Caponigro at his studio in Cushing ME. It is very cold, with the wind chill hovering around 8 degress (yes, eight). We should get 8-10 inches of snow tonight. I hope my Pontiac Vibe makes it. I had to go to JC Penneys to get gloves yesterday. Today I was going to go out to shoot but decided to brush up on Photoshop skills instead...not a difficult choice to make. I am looking forward to meeting John Paul and learning about B&W conversions and printmaking from a master. I hope his studio has heat!
The TraPac container facility is located at the north-west end of the Dames Point bridge. I first saw this from the bridge as I was returning home from a shoot at Big Talbot. It is one of those times where something seems to appear from nowhere. The project was completed in about 18 months and is quite impressive. I was contacted by Powell Design Group to photograph the 14 buildings and canopies that make up the facility. Each building had it's own character, largely dictated by the specialized functions contained within. Overall there was a design aesthetic that was consistent and in harmony with the neighboring wetlands. A security guard stopped to see what we were doing and remarked that he really appreciated the design of the buildings. I took over 600 images over two days, and was fortunate that the weather was cool and the skies blue. I even got some clouds on day 2. We stayed one evening to catch the sunset.
This project was very comprehensive and I am preparing the formal licensing and project deliverables to the client. I am also going to utilize PhotoShelter to provide a lightbox and ability for others to gain access and purchase rights to the images. This is a significant step in doing business as a photographer...you must not only get the work, produce it, bill it, and manage the rights. My education continues.
You would figure since I was born in FL that I would know this state like the back of my hand, especially as a photographer. Well, you know how the saying goes...something about green grass? After attending FotoFusion we headed south to Homestead FL, the city closest to the Everglades park entrance. We stayed in the trusty Best Western. I've been having a lot of luck with the BW hotels recently, they seem to be cheaper than the Hampton Inns (my "gold" standard) and each hotel is a little different. At $105 a night, queen bed, fridge, microwave, breakfast, it's a good deal. Our plans for the week were 3 days here in the Everglades, a quick trip to Key Biscayne, then driving through Big Cypress and up to Sanibel, then back to Jacksonville.
I'm not a wildlife photographer, and when you say Everglades you say birds and wildlife. This being the height of the birding season gets some people really excited. Lots of shorebirds, egrets, herons, etc. and plenty of gators. I was looking to produce some interesting landscapes and found this to be challenging. Clyde Butcher has the corner on the classic FL landscape, and you can't help but be completely in awe of his work. Finding my own interpretation of the nature of FL would certainly take me more than 3 days. I've grown to appreciate the fact that you need to be in an area for a long time in order to fully capture the sense of place. You can't just show up in your car on a random day and expect to walk away with a great image. Clyde Butcher lives right in the middle of the Big Cypress swamp and has been photographing there for half of his life. That is one reason why his images are so incredible.
So I set out with modest expectations and hopes of seeing and experiencing new things. We left my brother's house in Boca Raton and headed to the American Orchid Society Botanical Gardens in Delray Beach. Included is a landscaped garden area and a 45oo sf greenhouse filled with orchids. Best of all they allowed tripods. I was challenged finding compositions with so many flowers. The facility itself contains many resources for orchid growers and is a must see if you are an orchid lover.
American Orchid Society greenhouse gallery.
From Delray we took the Florida Turnpike to Florida City, which is at the south end of the highway. We checked into our hotel and headed to the Everglades visitor center to grab maps. It is about 15 miles from Florida City to the park. Our sunset location was the Pa-hay-okee Overlook (river of grass) which is an elevated boardwalk in the middle of an area of dwarf cypress trees. There were many clouds as the front was coming in and we managed to see some color. As soon as the sun went down the mosquitoes came out...they were brutal!
The next day we headed out to the end of the main road which is at the Flamingo Visitor Center. Along the way we stopped at an overlook right before Pa-hay-okee. Then we headed to the Mahogany Hammock. From here there was an area where there had recently been a fire, and the palmettos were just beginning to grow back, creating an interesting scene of green shoots. From Flamingo we headed back to the Christian Point Trail. We hiked about 1 mile in and turned back, then we stopped at the West Lake boardwalk and stayed until sunset. Unfortunately the clouds had taken over and there was no color.
Everglades and Big Cypress gallery.
Our next destination was Key Biscayne NP which is due east of Florida City. At the visitor center we found out that no boats were leaving due to the weather. By now the front had moved in with high winds and cold temperatures. We walked along the boardwalk and out to the jetty. Next time we will take a glass bottom boat tour which is a great way to see the reef if you want to keep dry.
From here we headed back into the park and stopped at Royal Palm which is the start of the Anhinga Trail and Gumbo Limbo Trail. The Anhinga is famous for wildlife, especially gators along the bank of the canal that follows the trail. It was very crowded with people and bus loads of kids, so we opted for the Gumbo Limbo trail and from there we headed for Long Pine Key, which is primarily a campground in the middle of a pine forest. I enjoyed a cloudless sunset in the pine forest.
While visiting all these locations I became aware of the devestation caused by Hurricane Andrew in 1992. Basically Andrew, a Category 5 hurricane had winds of over 169 mph when it hit FL, ripped through this area destroying practically all the vegetation, trees, buildings, and most if not all of the growth is new since 1992. The signs along the trail told of many of the massive oak trees which were lost, and the buttonwood trees that were felled by the storm. You can still see many of the remains of the destruction.
From here we headed back to the Tamiami Trail to Big Cyress National Preserve. We stopped at a boat slip near the Miccosukee Reserve and talked to a local guide about all the big changes going on in the area. Lots of new development everywhere until the economy tanked. Lots of people from the north moving in. We took the Loop Road Scenic Drive on recommendation from one of the rangers. Lots of gators along the roadside and great views of the cypress trees. This road is unpaved but suitable for all types of cars. It's a slow drive but well worth it to see a "real" view of the old Florida. It was back to the highway on onto I-75 to Ft Meyers, where we checked into the Best Western (of course!). The weather report said early morning lows of 28 degrees with 20-25 mph winds...are you kidding?
We made a quick stop at Sanibel Island. It had been many years since we were here with the children. We stopped at Bowman's Beach hoping to find a good shelling spot. Looks like we missed the low tide so the shells were disappointing. It was cold on the beach so after about 2 hours we headed back to Jacksonville.
I am happy to report that I got my lazy butt out of the house to go shoot at one of my favorite locations in FL, Big Talbot Island SP. We have been having some really strange weather with record highs and cool nights. When the ambient temperature and dew points collide there's FOG! We don't have very many foggy mornings here in Jacksonville, so I was excited. Yesterday the fog lasted well past 10 AM...could I be so lucky again? Well......the alarm rang at 5 AM and I was on the road by 6, things looked promising. As I crossed the Dames Point Bridge and headed out Hecksher Drive, I could see that I was going to be disappointed. Boo. It was cloudy but no fog, it did not get cold enough. But the morning was peaceful on the beach. Please be aware that the main beach entrance is blocked so you have to find your own way to the beach.
I felt a little strange in that I had a lot of trouble "seeing" anything. I was listening the previous night to a podcast by Brooks Jenson on creativity, or the lack thereof, and how he sometimes suffers from a creative block, so he just sits in his car and reads and drinks coffee while his friend photographs. (click here and navigate to LW0463: The Rhythm of Creativity). Well that story stuck in my brain and I kept asking myself, "maybe this is going to be one of those mornings..." Bad idea. I was convinced that I got nothing, I'll let you be the judge of that. I did let the images "age" on the memory cards for a few days before processing.
On the lookout for the next foggy morning in Jacksonville.
Just finished a workshop on Location Lighting with Joe McNally at the Lepp Institute in Los Osos CA. What a week! My plan was to fly into SFO and spend a few days in Marin County (one of my favorite areas) then take the scenic route down CA1 to Los Osos which is a small town near Morro Bay (north of Santa Barbara). I found that most people in CA never heard of Los Osos either. Many thanks to Rex Naden, a workshop leader who graciously provided some ideas along the coast for shooting. So my week started with a long flight from JAX and two nights at the Best Western in Corte Madera. Hotel rooms are pricey in SF. This was a good location close to Pt Reyes National Seashore which was my first destination. Being on Pacific time you would think I would have a chance at catching some nice foggy sunrises on the west coast. Well...it seems that my adjustment came all too soon and I was typically missing the sunrise at 7:00.
The drive to Pt Reyes first took me through Samuel P Taylor State Park which had some very nice redwoods, pines, and oaks. It was a lovely drive along Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (not!)...unknowingly to me this road is notorious for bad morning traffic and I caught the worst of it. Next time I will take the 101 up to Novato and then west to the coast.
I reached the Bear Valley Visitor Center at Pt Reyes around noon. The sun was screaming above in the cloudless sky and it was just one of those days where you resolve to enjoy the view and not worry about perfect lighting. On the way to the coast I passed an interesting entrance to the historic RCA/Marconi wireless receiving station. A cypress lined "tree tunnel" surrounds the road that leads to the station. An impressive entrance. I was able to get to South Beach and the Lighthouse before the sun started going down at 5:00. From the lighthouse, I caught the sunset over the South Beach and as I drove home I could see the purple sky through the rear view mirror. I met Brenda Tharp and Jed Manwaring for dinner in Novato. Finally got to meet their dog Mocha! Overall a nice day for photography.
Sam Taylor and Pt. Reyes gallery.
The next morning's plan was to wake up early for some nice fog in the Presidio. Could I make it across the Golden Gate by 7:00 AM? Fat chance...good thing about the Best Western Corte Madera is that they bring your continental breakfast to your room. Mine arrived at 6:30 but by the time I got everything packed in the car I was looking at 7:45. As I was driving over the bay the sun was up and bathing the bridge in golden light. I had to stop! Off the first exit there is a parking area on the right so I found a spot (not too hard on a Saturday morning), grabbed the camera and tripod and climbed up one of the concrete embankments. Another photographer was already there, probably snickering that I was arriving about an hour too late. So I sacrificed what was left of the fog for some bridgework. I can't say that it was worth it but I can't resist this bridge. I did not know about the access from the south (San Francisco) end. Only bikes are permitted to cross...no pedestrians. There is a lot of construction going on with chain link fences everywhere around the base. After about an hour here I decided to head to the Presidio, now that the sun was in full force.
I drove along Lincoln Blvd and then randomly looking for the main visitor center so I could get a map. This is a big place. Tons of joggers and cyclists on this Saturday morning. I ended up at Inspiration Point, from there I followed a map to the Officer's Club/Visitor Center. I asked the young lady there where the cedar groves were, she gave me this funny look and said she had no idea...just walk around. Geesh, every minute the sun was climbing higher and you know what that means. Back in the car I drove through the National Cemetery which was a very moving place. I was a bit self conscious photographing in there so I shot from the car.
Back onto Lincoln I spot a grove of trees near Park Ave. I pull into the parking area for Maintenance Building 682. The sun was coming up over the trees and the light was spilling through the grove. As I grabbed the camera and tripod I could see that some of the cyclists were stopping to take a picture...it was really a surreal effect with the sun going through the haze around the trees. I was so excited!
After my appointment with the trees I drove to Crissy Field, parked, and walked towards the bridge. The wind had picked up and there was a rest station appropriately named the "Warming Hut." Then back on Lincoln to Baker Beach where there is another good angle to shoot the bridge. By this time it is high noon and I continued on to an area called Land's End, grabbed a sandwich, and then found Hiway 1 and started driving south towards Monterey.
The next stop was at the Pigeon Pt lighthouse. I always find lighthouses very interesting both physically and metaphorically. Usually built on a small spit of rock, typically where the weather is brutal, just to house a bright beacon to keep ships safe. The stories surrounding each structure and the lighthouse keepers is always fascinating. Onwards to catch the sunset in Santa Cruz. Isn't it crazy to be driving with your camera knowing that the sun is setting and you don't have a place to go. Luckily I found a park with beach access just in time. As the sun settled onto the water the camera was in place.
I did make it to Monterey, another Best Western. This one was $69 per night, includes fridge and microwave and free breakfast. You can't beat that! Today's goal is to make it from here to Los Osos on Hiway 1. First stop, Point Lobos State Reserve. My intention to rise early seems always to be...well a good intention. Never works out. I was in the park by 8:30 AM, the sun was going to be very strong but a front was moving in. As I parked my car at the first trailhead there was a volunteer and a park ranger talking, so I started asking questions and before you know it another 45 minutes passed. Believe me what they say is true, don't try to do landscape photography in direct sun. As good as you "think" your image looks in the viewfinder and on that tiny LCD, the contrast is way too high. It was good practice, and the views along the coast were incredible. Point Lobos is a fairly large park with many trails along the coast. I was lucky in that the park was relatively empty. As the afternoon wore on the clouds rolled in, the wind picked up, and temperature dropped.
From Pt Lobos it was on to Big Sur and the classic California coastline. Driving on Hiway 1 is a real experience. I pulled off the road at a turnout to watch the sunset, and when I lost all the light, I had 50 miles to go on the twisty roads to Los Osos. Yikes!
Five days with Joe McNally can change your life. Joe is one of those charismatic people who can radiate his passion for photography, and the fact that he is willing to teach all willing subjects his craft is, well, quite a privilege for me. If you have never heard Joe speak, get yourself to one of his presentations or seminars right away. He is entertaining, inspiring, and his self-deprecating humor shows what a genuine down-to-earth person he really is. Joe is the "real thing." Day one of the workshop Joe presents his work and a bit of his own philosophy. In fact each morning we got a small dose of Joe's inner workings. You walk away in complete disbelief that this guy is in the same room with you teaching you how to set your white balance, the same guy who worked with celebrities, presidents, who has been everywhere and shot everything.
I attended this workshop to demystify lighting. If you are going to learn, learn from the best. Did I achieve my goal? Was I ready for this? Probably not. But the experience was worth it. The class was large (16 people) and we divided into teams of 4 to shoot, each team had one model and we rotated shooting locations (2 locations per day). This was good and bad. I'm not so big on these "team" things not that I'm not a team player but at this point in my life I don't want to put up with people who are difficult (especially when I'm paying). Overall it worked out ok but certainly more hands on, more shooting, more iterations, would have helped me out. Did I master lighting? Far from that. Did I learn enough to keep going? Yes, now I at least know the basics and can keep working on it.
Lighting is definitely one of those "learn by doing" skills. Joe was a big supporter of "add enough light to taste" and like a master chef, he knew what to add and how to add it. I need formulas and stuff. Heck, I don't know enough about what looks good in a glamour shot to even know what to do to make it better. Duh. So maybe I needed a more basic class to build up my confidence and nail some basic setups. There still seemed to be too much trial and error for me...to many options, too many ways to do the same things. That's what makes it an art.
So here are some results for the week. Never worked so hard to get so few so-so images. That's when you know you are breaking new ground.
With the workshop over, I had 3 days of making my way back to San Francisco. Time to retrace my journey north on Hiway 1 with a stop at Big Sur. Wouldn't you know they closed Pfeiffer State Park for the rest of the season because of the fires and road repair. This is the big area directly around Big Sur...major disappointment. I decided to stay at the Big Sur Lodge which is at the entrance to the park and figured I would find something interesting on the 2 trails that were still open.
From Los Osos I woke up early (hooray!) to head up to Montana de Oro and Morro Bay State Parks. The wind was blowing hard and it was cold (well cold for me) but I was determined to finally get some morning light. Montana de Oro had a eucalyptus grove and a great coastal area but honestly the weather was pretty bad. After some shots here I headed out of town through Morro Bay SP which was very small. Got lost finding gas and finally got onto Hiway 1. Stopped at a few turnouts for some pics. The coast is incredible. I also saw in the light what I drove through in pitch blackness. You know why they put a 25 mph limit on those curves...because it you run off the road you literally go off a cliff into the sea. Yes, has-ta la vista, you are a gonner.
The rain started up and by 4:30 I checked into the Big Sur Lodge and got a nice cabin for $135. Most of Big Sur is a major tourist trap because it is in the middle of nowhere and the choices are slim. Dinner plans? Got a burrito and apple at the local gas station...cost me $12, ouch, but I was good for the night. Rain meant no sunset so I was relieved not to have to chase a location for that. From the weather report it looked like the front was locked onto the coast with crummy weather all weekend, so the plans for the morning were in the air. I think I'll sleep in. The next morning the rain let up and I rushed to the window to make sure that I didn't miss a gorgeous sunrise. Why can't we let it go? So we miss the most fantastic sunrise ever to happen at Big Sur...what's the big deal? It was a late breakfast at the lodge restaurant and then onto the Buzzard's Roost Trail right across the street. How convenient. The rain had let up, it was cloudy, and the wind died down, lovely conditions for a hike and some pictures. I had a great time and ended up taking 4 hours covering 1/3 of the trail (never did the portion that climbed to the top of the ridge).
From Big Sur I drove to Monterey and stayed again at the Best Western. Best $65 deal in town. The rain came down in sheets and I settled in. My thoughts surely were continued rain throughout the next day. Sleep in!! The next morning I was awakened by the pink sky of a gorgeous sunrise...OMG, the rain stopped. So what is the plan for the day? I happened to glance at one of those hotel books on Monterey and noticed that Michael Kenna was exhibiting at the Monterey Museum of Art...keep reading...exhibition Feb 9 - July 13...missed it. The title: The Elkhorn Slough and Moss Landing. I remembered that Moss Landing was a city nearby. Hmmm, good enough for Michael Kenna, good enough for me. Onwards to Moss Landing.
As I started driving north the sun was going in and out and to my surprise a huge rainbow appeared on the ocean. I was approaching Sand City (appropriately named) and wanted to find an exit that would take me to the shore. I got off but found myself in the wrong lane to loop to the shore, and ended up back on 1 going north. I was driving like mad to get to the next exit and then backtrack. All this was happening while I had the rainbow in clear sight. Finally when I found the backroad to get to the ocean the rainbow had all but disappeared. So much for that. Moss Landing was ahead and I could not wait to see what Michael Kenna found there.
As I approached the main entrance I could see a car stopped near the gate. A closed gate? What was this? There seemed to be cars in the parking lot, but the gate was locked. I read the sign: Parked closed on Mondays. WTF? Of all the stupid things...who decided this? There was only 1 other location open, a boat ramp. What a disappointment. Just couldn't believe it. I wasted my morning shoot for a boat ramp? Well, I headed for the boat ramp hoping for a happy ending. By this time all traces of any clouds had disappeared, the sun was in full force in a blue sky. Just a lovely time for landscape photography. Well the boat ramp confirmed my complete and utter disappointment. After now seeing Kenna's portfolio, I should have made the best of it to photograph the fence posts, sea gull droppings, and power plant smokestacks, but I just called it a day and decided to move on to San Francisco. I had a great 12 days, lots of great shooting, and some days you just enjoy driving around in Castroville - the artichoke capital of the world!
I am returning from a week in NYC attending the PDN Photo Expo and then staying on to visit with my daughter and playing tourist. PDN (as usual) was awesome and it reminded me of attending the computer shows back in the late 70's, full of excitement. I fell in love with the new 5D MkII...I actually had one reserved at Hunt's Photo and turned it down. Just doing a little proactive recession proofing. Boy this market is crazy and I'm taking a major hit.
After the Expo we visited the New York Botanical Garden, did Central Park, and then the Metropolitan. On the last day it was rainy and I was beat, but I still wanted to get out to the Financial District with a possible visit to the Statue of Liberty while everyone else was shopping. Now I get lost just going to the store at home so navigating the subways and streets of NYC is a major challenge for me. In the rain hauling camera gear in the cold, wind...well you get the picture. I decided to go with one body and my 24-70 and 70-200, with a Think Tank Change-up bag. I was still pretty obvious walking around in my bright red ski jacket with this big camera -- tourist alert! I started out around 9 am and took the Green line to Wall Street. As I popped out of the ground Trinity Church was on my right...I was there!
So I found the famous Wall Street which to be honest was not all that impressive. The New York Stock Exchange building was obviously closed to the public and had an enormous flag draped across the front of the building. I guess they wanted to demonstrate the patriotism of losing trillions of dollars in this holy institution. Across the street was the famous statue of George Washington at the Federal Hall Building, witnessing the mess this country has created. Security was very tight and despite the rain, there were many tourists wandering around, primarily from Europe and Japan.
From Wall Street I made my way to Ground Zero. I did not know what to expect. I walked north on Trinity Place up to Liberty and headed west. As I approached the site I could see that everything was boarded up at street level, again very tight security and lots of construction equipment. I passed the 9/11 memorial musem and had intended to come back but never did...next time. It was around lunch time and very crowded. I was hanging around one of the construction entrances taking some shots when this huge construction worker starts walking towards me. I expected him to start telling me to get lost but I smiled and waved and he then asked me if I was getting some good shots. He told me to go to the Winter Garden Court in the World Financial Center for the best overall view of the site.
At this point I really needed to find a restroom so my potty radar was on high alert as I entered the World Financial Center complex hoping that I would blend in with all the suits walking around. This building is huge and I spotted a sign to the Winter Garden. This is actually a huge food court within a bunch of high end shops. I found the viewing area and just stood there, looking at the site through the windows. I started to get quite emotional as I saw all the American flags on the cranes and the enormity of the site. And then I started thinking about what it was like when it happened, and the clean up, and the lives that were affected. I just stood there and looked.
Then I remembered that I really do need to use the toilet and I really do need to make some images so it was images first (of course!) and then on to find the public restroom. I grabbed a sandwich and planned my next stop...the Statue of Liberty. I decided to walk on the Esplanade at Battery Park City, so I could fully experience the wind chill coming off the Hudson River. Judging from the total lack of people I was convinced that it was too cold for any rational human being to be walking around.
The ferry to the Statue and Ellis Island leaves from Battery Park, and as I walked up to the ticket booth they were telling everyone to hurry up as this was the last ferry of the day, and that it was too late to go to Ellis Island. So I think I got the last ticket (my style) and I ran to catch the ferry. Of course they had the airport security set up and I had to strip off the camera gear, shoes, etc. while I could see the boat waiting to leave. Oh those tourists! The ride on the ferry was fun as it allowed me to reach another level of coldness as the spray added some moisture to the air. Curious there was no one on the back railing of the boat taking pictures...everyone was huddled inside as any sane person would do. I was hanging off the back hoping the spray would keep off the lens.
Before you knew it Lady Liberty was right in front of us. We docked and I headed to the park visitor center to get my National Park Passport stamped. You approach the statue from the back, walking around the base you can get a sense of the scale, and then the impact hits you when you walk around to see the face. Brilliant. As I was shooting the light was changing and the conditions were just perfect for what I consider a great day to be out in the cold. These clouds are not Photoshopped! At 5:00 the last ferry was leaving so I made sure I wasn't the last one. On the ferry the sun came out for a brief moment to illuminate the city with the light of liberty.
In retropect this was one of my best days for images. What made it special? The locations, the weather, my frame of mind? Special days are to be cherished because they don't happen very often. When they do we celebrate and give thanks.
We received an offer on our condo within 3 weeks of listing it. So the time has come, time to pack and time to say goodbye. Moving is tough both emotionally and physically. I did not want to ship anything back, so the furniture was sold with the condo and everything that would not fit into the SUV got tossed or was given away. I also had 3 bikes, tons of books, and clothes. My decision was that after closing, we would make our way west along HW 17 through Ottawa, Pembroke, North Bay, Sudbury, through Sault Ste-Marie to Munising MI. This would allow us to see some peak foliage in the Michigan UP. Then we would drive south through Columbus to visit with relatives, with a quick stop in West Virginia and then back to Florida. I had spent the week previously packing and visiting with friends. The execs at my office invited me to a farewell dinner which was very touching. I received gifts and well wishes from everyone. This made it all the more difficult to leave. As we turned in our condo keys and headed out of town Dorian and I were in tears. It was very sad and both of us knew that we were closing out a very special time in our lives. The weather matched our feelings as it was drizzling cold rain. I met my close friend Ed outside the city to give him my phones and router. We hugged and said goodbye.
Québec/Ontario Autumn gallery.
Soon we crossed into Ontario and we noticed the foliage was brilliant. Although the rain continued the trees were in their peak transition. We managed to stop at several parks and turnouts along the way. First night was in Pembroke at the Econo Lodge. I made reservations on line at various places. You never know what you are going to get but we were please with the accommodations. Night number 2 was in Sudbury at the Parker House Inn (a B&B). I would highly recommend this place, great restaurant and very nice people. After 2 days of driving we crossed back into the US at Sault Ste-Marie into Michigan and headed to Munising . When we crossed the border I had another moment of sadness as I said goodbye to Canada. The Soo locks were very interesting and we did not allow time to photograph there (next time) as we wanted to make it to Munising before dark.
We arrived at the Sunset Motel on the Bay and Lake Superior greeted us with rain and gale force winds. Forcast? Rain and wind for the next 3 days. Lovely.
